Sunday, 12 April 2009

SEMANA SANTA FINALLY!!!!!!!!

After all the hype, Semana Santa finally arrived. From the beginning of the week town was filled with tourists and local people on holiday, all booked up for the weeks events..or rather processions, as everything revolved around these leaving the churches at various times of the day.
At the hospital we fed and changed the children and then rounded up as many volunteers as we could to take the children out to the various churches to see the processions. Some people also came in just for the day to help out which was really good as it meant that more children could get out.


So in the blazing heat we pushed the children along the cobbled and uneven streets to the various churches, often bringing the traffic to a standstill, as it was busy, there were a number of traffic police who were very willing to help us cross the streets and navigate the crowds. Later we bought ice creams for all the children and the helpers. This week the time just raced by as we were out quite a lot if the time, enjoying the sun and the carnival type atmosphere.

A big week this week as Perla was baptised, AND surprisingly her mother arrived with her new born child. It was quite strange to meet her after such a long time, as she has never visited Perla since she was admitted. I was asked to be her godmother but I declined as I will not be here, so one of the young nurses volunteered, which is great and quite common at the hospital as many of the children don’t have families. So armed with a couple of presents we arrived at the hospital on staurday night at 7.30 to attend her baptism…Not unsurprising I was overwhelmed when I saw Perla all dressed up in a beautiful white dress…. Yes I shed a tear or two she just looked beautiful…. There were four other children from the ward who were also being baptised… After the final sermon, in the quiet church with everyone thinking about what Father Jose had said, all we could hear was Perla laughing and one of the other children humming a song. I must admit we had a giggle.














Next week it should be back to work as usual as the other children return and we get back to normality..of a sort! I am looking forward to it!









PROCESSIONS…PROCESSIONS…PROCESSIONS!!!!!!!















I am totally overwhelmed by what I have seen this week. Semana Santa is everything I have read about! Every major church in Antigua and a couple of surrounding villages has a procession throughout the week. Every church has an anda; a large processional platform carrying the figures and decorated, carried by lots of people and paraded through every street in town. Every street makes a number of alfrombas; carpets made from various materials like flowers and coloured sawdust as well as fruit and vegetables. The andas are carried by men in full length purple tunics until 3.00pm on Good Friday after which they wear black. They carry the figure of Christ. The women dress in black and white and carry the Virgin Mary. In front of the procession is a group of men filling the streets with incense, so much that its often difficult to see the other side of the street, the smell lingering for hours afterwards. Following behind each anda is a brass band playing throughout the day and night. The streets are lined with men and women in purple or black robes ready to exchange places with the ones carrying the andas, so many people have the opportunity to participate. For these processions people pay for the privilege of carrying the anda and have to hire or buy the uniform, consequently its mainly the richer people who participate.











On Good Friday we were on the streets outside one of the main churches ready for the procession of Jesus and the cross at 3.15am. It was spectacular with Roman soldiers on horses and chariots , as well as soldiers and children carrying banners. All the streets were covered in amazing alfrombas, all made during the night. Then at 4.00am the anda came out of the church and started its journey through the streets of Antigua. It did this till 5.30pm in the evening. In other parts of Antigua other andas were also being carried along the streets. Saturday all the processions were for the Virgin Mary.
There was also a procession of tableauxs illustrating the twelve stages of the cross, following the same pattern as the previous day but without the soldiers etc. One of the things that has surprised me is the music which is played throughout the day and night! Often I would wake up in the night to hear the sounds of the drums and trumpets! Quite surreal!



Today, Easter Sunday, the main procession left from our hospital cathedral. Today celebrates the Resurrection and also stands as the day of the poor. Today anyone can carry the anda and there is no charge and people can wear what they like. It was spectacular with lots of music, fireworks, clapping, singing and rejoicing as people celebrated the Resurrection. The children and other patients from the hospital lined the streets as the anda went by. Two hours later the streets were clean as people headed back home after a spectacular few days.




Everyone present in Antigua during Semana Santa engages emotionally regardless of their religion- or lack of it -or point of origin or perspective. Quite simply, the energy created through the shared focus and will power of thousands of participants, involved in a centuries old cycle of suffering, pain and final redemption is impossible to ignore or remain unmoved by.









































Enjoy

Adios amigos

Goodnight

Xxx

5 comments:

Maya said...

Querida Nayna,
Hola chica y Feliz Pascua para ti y Martino!
Such bad Spanish I'm sure but I hope you get the drift.
Fantastic to see all the pics as Semana Santa is finally here. You've built up such excitement in all of us, I'm sure, and I'm only sorry that I couldn't be there to share it with you.
All I can say is "wow", which seems such a paltry word for an amazing Easter Parade. Thankyou a million times for your beautiful, vivid, rich and colourful blog. Better than any Easter egg.
Mucho amor para ti, mi amiga.
Besos y abrazos Maya xxx

Adrian said...

There have been so many beautiful and powerful images in your last few posts, such a world of experience and emotion. I honestly feel privileged to have seen/read them. I know there must be long periods of inactivity, boredom, ordinariness and loneliness too – but the sheer 'intensity' of your life there must sometimes be exhausting.
You're my hero (even more than you were before!)
From the photos it looks like Martin fitted right in to life in Antigua. You both look relaxed and happy, and the pictures of Perla are lovely (particularly on her special day!)
Thank you for sharing so much of your experience…
Tons of love Adrianxx

BobH said...

Wow ! you must both be emotionally and physically exhausted! It must have been something to witness! I imagine after the excitement getting back to normal will be quite hard ! It certainly makes watching "The Robe" for the 'n'th time on TV and munching an Easter egg a bit tame! Hola! Bob H

Unknown said...

You have captured it all SO well in your blog - the atmosphere, the emotion, the music (I have to say I thought you WERE rather positive about that! - it all being in minor keys & dreadfully depressing!).
Please keep up this marvellous writing, to inform & inspire others to come to Antigua & to experience some of what you have already assimilated into your heart & soul to take back home with you in a few months' time

Unknown said...

Your latest blog entry was stunning and very beautiful, I felt very emotional seeing the photos of Perla dressed up for her baptism. She is a beautiful little soul.
The celebrations you have described sound amazing and truly exhausting! Out of this world! I hope that one day I can witness them first hand, but in the meantime, your writing transports me and allows me to feel like I am there with you!
Life must be crazy busy for you right now, with so much going on. You are, as Adrien said, our hero-and a constant inspiration.
Love you and miss you,
Annika, Nori & Ethan xoxoxoxoxo